Start with the stockfish, as it needs softening. Rinse it well under cold water, then place it in a heatproof bowl and cover completely with boiling water.

35 minutes later, rinse the smoked herring, then place in the same bowl to rehydrate for 10 minutes. Drain, remove any obvious bones and break both the stockfish and the smoked fish into large pieces. Set aside.

Add the oxtail to a pot with half the chopped onion, the seasoning cube and a pinch of salt. Add water just to cover. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook low and slow for 1½–2 hours, until the meat is tender and the stock is rich and gelatinous. Don’t throw this stock away.

While the oxtail cooks, mix the egusi with warm water until you’ve got a thick paste, somewhere between peanut butter and double cream. Set aside.

Blend the Scotch bonnet, red bell pepper and the remaining onion until smooth.

Heat the palm oil in a wide pot over a medium heat. Pour in the pepper blend and fry patiently until the raw smell disappears and the oil starts to separate slightly. Stir in the ground crayfish.

Spoon the egusi paste into the pot in rough dollops. Do not stir. Cover and leave it to cook for 5–7 minutes so it sets into soft curds.

Gently stir, breaking the egusi into lumps rather than a smooth sauce.

Add the cooked oxtail along with enough of its stock to loosen the soup. Add the softened stockfish. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes, then add the smoked herring.

Let it cook gently for another 8–10 minutes, stirring carefully so it doesn’t completely break down. Taste before adding more salt — dried fish carries its own seasoning.

Add the spinach and cook for 3–5 minutes until just wilted. Adjust seasoning if needed. You’re looking for a thick, rich soup with palm oil sitting clearly on the surface.